Hana Tsubaki by Shiseido (1917)

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 Today, I’ve chosen to talk about the inaugural fragrance from Shiseido, Hana Tsubaki, launched in 1917.

“The origin of all subsequent Shiseido fragrances”


A bit of history… 

Considered to be the first Japanese-made perfume aiming to rival and even surpass its European counterparts which dominated the market at the time, it marked a pivotal moment in Shiseido's history and in the development of Japanese perfumery. A significant part of then President Shinzo Fukuhara’s “products as art” philosophy, elevating cosmetics to a form of artistic expression, Hana Tsubaki featured a unique design that blended contemporary Modernism with a Japanese sensibility and a scent profile specifically formulated to appeal to “Asian tastes.” 

Established in Tokyo’s Ginza district in 1872 by Arinobu Fukuhara as Japan’s first Western-style pharmacy, Shiseido marked a departure from traditional herbal medicine, which had dominated the era, to the adoption of modern, scientific principles. Eudermine, Shiseido’s legendary skin softener which is still available today and is a personal favourite of mine, marked the company’s first foray into cosmetics in 1897. A more formal reorientation from pharmaceuticals came in 1916 when Shiseido formally spun off its cosmetics department into a separate business entity while simultaneously opening its first dedicated cosmetics shop. 

The launch of Hana Tsubaki, which means camellia flower, in 1917 was a pioneering milestone. The choice of the camellia flower is particularly noteworthy not only because it was the company’s trademark since 1915 but also because the flower itself possesses little distinct fragrance of its own, necessitating an “artistic interpretation” by Fukuhara to create the “image of a fragrance” rather than a reproduction of floral scents. Notably, this move to sell experiences and cultural narratives rather than just olfactory notes set the groundwork for future conceptual fragrances from Shiseido such as Zen.

The design and packaging were also considered pioneering, fusing Western aesthetic trends with Japanese cultural elements featuring a stopper intricately “decorated with flowers in engraved relief” and a bottle showcasing “high-quality cut glass” with the product name “emblazoned in gold leaf.” 

The success of Hana Tsubaki spurred the development of Shiseido’s fragrances with Ume (plum) and Fuji (wisteria) following Hanatsubaki in quick succession in 1918 and Kiku (chrysanthemum) in 1920. The use of the name Hanatsubaki also extended beyond the fragrance itself to anchoring a significant cultural magazine initially launched as “Shiseido Monthly” in 1924 then eventually renamed Hana Tsubaki in 1937 and the Hana Tsubaki Club, a loyalty program launched the same year. 

The scent profile of Hanatsubaki was described as having an authentic “weighty quality” harmonizing with a “sweetish fragrance” asserting a Japanese identity with the deliberate choice of “scents of Japanese flowers” in a Western-dominated luxury market frequently overrun by “inferior imitations” of French fragrances imported from Paris.

While it is no longer available given the production of Hana Tsubaki likely halted with the advent of WWII, in 1987, to celebrate the 115th anniversary of Shiseido and the 50th anniversary of its "Hanatsubaki-kai" (Camellia Club) loyalty program, a new series of fragrances was launched exclusively for club members. The first of these fragrances was also called "Hana Tsubaki" though likely not using the same formula. This release was significant because it came exactly 70 years after the original 1917 perfume.  It was part of a limited edition trilogy, followed by "Hana Sakura" in 1988 and "Hana Sumire" in 1989. A limited edition re-creation of the original 1917 fragrance, called "Hanatsubaki Euthrixine,” was launched in 2008. 

What did it smell like?

While an official olfactory profile is not provided by Shiseido, it has generally been described as:

  • Floral
  • Powdery
  • Lactonic
  • Soft Spicy 
In terms of specific notes, the following have been suggested:
  • Bamboo
  • Galbanum
  • Hyacinth
  • White Lily
  • Daffodil
  • Peony
  • White Rose

My Impression 

I managed to get my hands on a bottle of Hana Tsubaki from the limited 1987 Camellia Club run and I am sampling it now for the first time. Following are my thoughts:

To me, this is a beautiful floral fragrance with a kick. Wonderfully preserved given its age, it starts off with a burst of citrus that quickly gives way to a milky, creamy floral heart. While there are clearly powdery facets, there is an underlying, subtle spiciness that keeps it fresh and slightly green, creating a nice balance. There is also a depth to it that is difficult to describe but the feeling I am left with is one of comfort and warmth. 


It is unlike anything on the market today that I can pinpoint but there certainly is a timeless quality to this fragrance. I can picture this being an ideal skin scent that is kept close to the chest. 

References & Further Reading:



Comments

  1. Karen SAugust 21, 2025 at 8:10 PM

    Are you going to explore Zen in the future? 🥰

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. TalalAugust 21, 2025 at 8:52 PM

      I was actually thinking of doing Ginza at some point, another fragrance from Shiseido! I haven’t tried the vintage formulation of Zen just yet.

      Delete
    2. Karen SAugust 21, 2025 at 9:22 PM

      Can’t wait!

      Delete

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